Table for Two

Ten years and better than ever

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Dino’s Restaurant
328 Sunrise Highway, Rockville Centre
(516) 764-0800, www.DinosRVC.com

Oct. 15 marked the 10-year anniversary of Dino’s. Having reviewed this restaurant when it opened, then five years later, and now, I have seen it evolve gracefully. Experience, say owners Mike and Ralph, has taught them not to cut corners. They are sticklers about top shelf ingredients and it’s evident.

Originally from Montenegro, both Mike and Ralph learned to cook at their family restaurants, mostly working in Manhattan restaurants when they came to the U.S. In 2005 they opened Dino’s. Mike mostly hosts and Ralph mans the kitchen. Everything is made from scratch: sauces, dressings, pasta and even the Lemoncello.

The décor remains chic and distinctive. Cuisine has advanced from home-style cookery to a more sophisticated version. My recommendation list is long, because whatever we tried (our hosts were enthusiastic and kept bringing out dishes) was truly outstanding.

Go easy on the freshly baked warm garlic knots with herb-infused olive oil; portions are quite generous. Caesar salad was snappy and fresh, dressing made to order. Stuffed artichoke was amazing — melted cheese, savory breadcrumbs, buttery sauce. Zucchini Fritti were lightly battered and fried, served with marinara. Grilled octopus — tender and luscious — was served over baby arugula. Hot antipasto came with baked clams, shrimp scampi, eggplant rollatini, stuffed mushrooms and mozzarella carroza.

Brick oven Margarita pizza was exceptional — perfect sauce paired with fresh melted mozzarella on a delicate crust, just crisp enough. Homemade pappardella (broad ribbon-like pasta) was crowned with a hearty red meat sauce. Dino’s Tortelli were handmade pasta parcels filled with three cheeses and spinach, coated in light cream sauce.

Entrees won’t disappoint. Chilean sea bass with shrimps was dotted with grape tomatoes and asparagus in lemon white wine sauce over risotto. Jumbo shrimps were overstuffed with crabmeat and vegetables, served with scampi sauce on risotto. Veal ala Dino, scaloppini topped with tomato slices and mozzarella, was finished in a rich brown wine sauce, served with spinach and mashed potatoes.

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