Table for Two

New star shines in Lynbrook

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Livorno Ristorante
79 Atlantic Ave., Lynbrook
(516) 439-4881
www.livornolynbrook.com

Open only several months, Livorno Ristorante is already running seamlessly. What we have here is fine dining featuring classic Italian and Sicilian cuisines. Ambience is cozy yet elegant, if not romantic, with crisp linens, fresh flowers and candles topping each table. You’ll feel right at home. Chef/owner, Nick Cobi, his wife, Amy, and their two sons, Alben and Dennis, are all warm and friendly, making sure guests feel like part of the family.

           Nick Cobi might look familiar; he has a following. During his decades of experience he has owned and managed several restaurants on Long Island. Last year, he was a featured chef for several weeks on TV’s “Real Food.”  When he cooks, he told us, he prepares everything as if he were cooking for his own family. At Livorno he will happily fulfill requests that aren’t on the menu. Everything is made to order, so it’s no problem. His mozzarella cheese, certain pastas, breads, breadcrumbs, sauces and desserts are prepared from scratch. Making people happy with his cooking is what drives him.

 With freshly baked bread, warm and toasty from the oven, came homemade caponata — a vibrant mixture of eggplant, tomatoes, zucchini, roasted peppers, hazelnuts, pignoli nuts and raisins. Fresh bruschetta on garlic toast arrived next.

 Artichoke aficionados will adore Chef Nick’s version. Perfectly cooked to tenderness, the artichoke was stuffed with breadcrumbs, a hint of anchovy, chopped olives and garlic, and shaved Romano and Parmigana cheeses. Hold onto your breadbasket to get the last of the luscious sauce. Fritto di calamari offered tender, gently fried golden ringlets served with marinara and lemon.

 Rigatoni Vodka was creamy and flavorful, tubular pasta in a pink sauce of ground shallots, a touch of cream, Grappa, tomato sauce and spices. Pollo Livorno —chicken scaloppini topped with sautéed onions, mushrooms, roasted red peppers and sun-dried tomatoes — was finished in delicate brown sauce.

 Desserts are baked by the chef himself. Italian cheesecake was firm yet moist, just sweet enough. Tiramisu was airy and light, as good as it gets. Coffee, tea, espresso and cappuccino are offered as well.

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