Table for Two

Literature meets epicurean delights

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Beginnings Restaurant
1986 Park St., Atlantic Beach
(516) 23-WRITE (239-7483), www.beginningsrestaurant.com

Beginnings Restaurant is clearly the beloved creation of Ben and Heather Freiser — literary buffs, foodies and parents. Ben has been a restaurateur throughout Long Beach, and Heather, an editor who also owned a baby store nearby. Together with a team of talents — Executive Chef David Bryer, sous chef Nicholas Marziotto, pastry chef Brian Fishman of Sweet Karma Desserts, and cocktail consultant Steve Magliano – the Freisers have created one of the most unique eateries on the South Shore.

 Décor is rustic, with reclaimed wood tables and bar, brick walls and light bulbs hanging from wires. Each detail serves a purpose, starting with book sections on the menu: “Prologue” for appetizers, “The Plot Twist” and “The Climax” listing larger dishes. Walls are lined with portraits of writers, and book shelves stocked with classics, framed first pages of novels, and antique typewriters, card catalogues, jugs and a sewing machine. One shelf doubles as a secret door to the restrooms, which are worth a visit. Youngsters can borrow from a corner of books and toys, color with crayons, and dine on dishes like Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs, Peter Rabbit Platter, and A Steak Fit for a Gruffalo.

Fare runs the gamut from most uncommon and gourmet, usually only found in high end Manhattan restaurants, to a wide variety of burgers. There is something for every palate. Prices are just as diverse: $7 for soup, $9 to $14 for salads, sandwiches and burgers, to $98 for Tomahawk Rib-Eye for Two. Most things are under $25. Also book-inspired, cocktails bring back the old classics, often with a novel twist.

Service was terrific. Rustic bread specked with sun dried tomatoes, herbed pita and homemade hummus arrived first. Pulpo, flavorful grilled octopus, joined peppers, charred tomatoes, olive and lime. Blistered Shisito Peppers with sundried cherries and charred lime was sprinkled with cinnamon chipotle salt. Served on a board were Beef Marrow and Oxtail Marinade plus roasted cloves of garlic and black cherry jam to spread on toasted brioche points … truly amazing.

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