Table for Two

History meets sensational eats

Posted

Pearsall’s Station

479 Sunrise Highway, Lynbrook

(516) 887-8384

www.pearsallstation.com 

While he did not grow up on Long Island, Brian Fern has a deep affinity for Lynbrook and all the community support he’s received over the years. He purchased his restaurant in 2000, when it was still BK Sweeney’s. Several years later, a fire caused him to close down and rebuild, re-opening as Pearsall’s Station. His re-invention connects his American grill to the history of its village.

 Lynbrook, a transposition of the syllables of Brooklyn, was not the original name of the village. During the 1800s it was Pearsall’s, named after a family whose members owned much of the area’s land. Resurrecting the name Pearsall, coupled with the pub’s close proximity to the railroad, Brian Fern re-titled his place, Pearsall’s Station. Décor maintains a vintage look, with rich mahogany, tiffany lamp shades, a long lively bar, and roomy wooden booths reminiscent of a train’s dining car.

 Over the years, Fern and his chef have enhanced the bill of fare to offer not only pub food and forgotten favorites (like Shepherd’s Pie, Homemade Meatloaf and Chicken Pot Pie), but restaurant quality entrees, creative appetizers, exotic salads, and a Sunday Brunch to rave about.

 Portions are quite generous and food is freshly prepared. Soups, appetizers, salads, sandwiches and burgers are $5.95 to $16.95. Entrees, specialties, pastas and charbroiled items are $10.95 to $27.95. Kid’s meals are $8.95, and desserts, around $4. Sunday Brunch, $16 to $19.95, comes with unlimited brunch cocktails and entrees like Chicken & Waffles, Shrimp & Grits, Make-your-own omelets and much more. The staff is extremely friendly and accommodating. It’s no secret that the chef will comply with special requests, providing ingredients are on hand.

 Seated in the dining area, we started with scrumptious Bacon-Wrapped Jumbo Shrimp (four) in lime beurre blanc cream sauce with toasted garlic bread. Sliders (three) on bakery rolls — either Buffalo Chicken, Freedom Dip, Traditional burger, or our choice, Filet Mignon — were outstanding, topped with Gorgonzola and caramelized onions, served with fries, coleslaw and a pickle. From the dinner specials, we enjoyed a tower of sliced tomato, grilled eggplant and crisply fried fresh mozzarella cheese, drizzled with fig reduction.

 Marinated Skirt Steak was tender and juicy, sided with garlic mashed potatoes, onion rings and fresh broccoli. Pearsall’s signature dish, Chicken Medina, was amazing —boneless breasts topped with a crisp potato crust (picture a blanket of hash browns), with chive demi-glace and a side of fresh green beans and carrots. Broiled Horseradish Crusted Salmon, one of the nightly specials, was cooked to perfection, served over rice with asparagus.

 Our decadent dessert was Lava Cake, properly molten, dollops of ice cream and whipped cream, drizzled with chocolate sauce.

Lunch is served everyday from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday Brunch is noon to 3:45 p.m. Dinner hours are 4 to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. Reservations are taken only for lunch and brunch, and large parties for dinner. Off-premise customized catering for any sized event is available. In-house parties for up to 30 can be arranged on weekend afternoons.

Recommendations:

■ Filet Mignon Sliders

■ Bacon-Wrapped Jumbo Shrimp

■ Fried Fresh Mozzarella with Grilled Eggplant, Tomato and Fig Reduction

■ Broiled Horseradish Crusted Salmon

■ Marinated Skirt Steak

■ Chicken Medina

■ Lava Cake