Johnny's Union Park Cafe — casual dining in Oceanside

Johnny's Union Park Café
2823 Long Beach Rd
Oceanside
(516) 766-9547

Recommendations:
Onion Soup
Shrimp Bisque
Pan Seared Crab Cakes
Coconut Battered Shrimp
Baby Back Ribs
Seafood Pot Pie
Chicken ala John
Lobster Ravioli
Filet Mignon Oscar
Brownie Sundae

Union Park Café is casual and inviting, conducive for frequent dining. What could be better than great value, fine fresh food, endless options, a cozy ambience and an undyingly friendly staff? And, attention has been given to the details that matter. Even with a lively bar, well-placed acoustics allow for a comfortable experience.

Revamped four years ago, Johnnyís Union Park Café is an offshoot of what was once Johnny Russell's. The original was a speakeasy founded circa Prohibition, and initially housed a bowling alley downstairs. Today it's a neighborhood favorite with year-round patio dining (tented and heated during winter) and third generation family management that strives to please.

Portions are enormous; plan to take home leftovers. From the dinner menu, soups and salads range from $3.95 to $12.95. Appetizers are $7.95 to $10.95. Burgers and sandwiches, which include fries, sweet potato fries or onions rings, are $8.95 to $14.95. Entrees, which come with a tossed or Caesar salad, and (except for pastas) potato and vegetable, run from $13.95 to $26.50. Kid-friendly dinners, which include a beverage, fries and ice cream, are $7.95. Soda refills are free for any age.

Desserts are $5.50.

Be careful not to fill up on the gratis offerings: warm pita and garlic toast with roasted pepper humus and marinated eggplant spreads. Crocks of French onion soup slathered with melted cheese, and rich shrimp bisque were both superb. The appetizers we tried are also available as entrees. Pan-seared crab cakes were plump and meaty, sided with tartar sauce. Scrumptious baby back ribs literally fell off the bone. Jumbo coconut battered shrimp were delightful and crisp, served with orange dipping sauce.