A slice of Italy, a twist of panache

Mia’s Restaurant

31 Rockaway Ave., Valley Stream

(516) 825-2117

After one year in business, Mia’s Restaurant has more than proven itself. My prediction: it is here to stay. Dishes we tried were fresh and remarkable. Servers were attentive. Décor is traditional with well-appointed seating. And Mia, the lovely owner, happily takes the time to make her guests feel welcome, which is a huge plus.

We were hooked from the onset by aromatic bruschetta — crisp garlic bread heaped with diced tomatoes, onions and basil. Several of the items I recommended were nightly specials, which were so good, they should be really be added to the regular menu.

Caprese insalata — creamy Buffalo mozzarella with basil, tomatoes, roasted red peppers and black olives — was refreshing and generous. If you order vongole dorate, hold onto the bread basket. These tender baked clams sit in a garlicky sauce that should be dipped into and devoured. Sacchetti, pasta parcels filled with mushrooms, truffle oil and fontina cheese, were topped with luscious brown sauce and fresh sliced mushrooms.

French toasted chicken boasted a bakery-like aroma and amazing flavor. Delicate cutlets were coated with crumbs made from French bread tossed with walnuts and raisins, and sautéed to outer crunchiness. Mashed potatoes joined the chicken. Veal saltimbocca, which was topped with prosciutto, mozzarella, capers and tomato sauce, came with roasted potatoes and sautéed escarole with garlic. Baby short ribs were fall-off-the-bone-tender, blanketed in rich brown sauce, served with polenta.

With cinnamon-dusted cappuccino we enjoyed Italian ricotta cheesecake garnished with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. Other desserts included fresh fruit, tiramisu and sorbet.

Dinner appetizers are $8 to $14, and pastas, $11.95 to $22. Entrees, which include grilled vegetables or pasta, range from $16 to $30. Pizzas are $12 to $14.95. Desserts are $6 and $7. Children’s selections are available. A pre fix dinner menu is offered Sunday through Thursday, which includes salad or fried calamari, choice of pasta and entrée, a glass of wine, cheesecake and coffee or tea for $25 per person.

In-house parties can be arranged for groups of up 90 people. Catering packages, which all include a personalized cake, range from $27.95 to $51.95 per person.

Restaurant hours are noon to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, noon to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and noon to 9 p.m. on Sunday. Mia’s is closed on Monday. Entertainment happens on Friday nights. Reservations are suggested.

Recommendations:

■ Insalata Caprese

■ Vongole Dorate

■ Sacchetti with Mushrooms &

Truffle Oil

■ Veal Saltimbocca all Romano

■ Baby Short Ribs

■ French Toasted Chicken

■ Italian Cheesecake