Experience dining with old-world charm

Il Villagio Trattoria Italiana

366 Hempstead Ave.

Malverne

(516) 792-6336

Tucked away among a strip of stores, Il Villagio is that cozy little gem that mostly locals have discovered. Antiqued coppery-colored walls carry paintings of Venice. Muted lighting, intimate seating, and calming music make this is a perfect spot for a romantic, or simply relaxing dining experience.

“But it’s all about the food,” says Chef Antonio Bove, who owns Il Villagio Trattoria Italiana with Marco Troiana, as well as Antonio’s Italian Delicatessen right down the street. Bove knows his cooking. Preparations were flawless, and sauces, while flavorful, were never overbearing.

Servers were polished and congenial. Ours brought imported olives with chunks of fresh parmigiana cheese, and a basket of toasty bread with a ramekin of garlic-infused olive oil. Eggplant “meatballs” — ground eggplant, cheese, breadcrumbs and spices rolled into balls — were capped with homemade tomato sauce…a unique special that earns kudos. Insalata Il Villagio, their sensational signature salad, offered mesclun greens, mushrooms, Gorgonzola, cherry tomatoes, artichoke hearts, and warm grilled shrimp, tossed with just enough truffle oil and lemon dressing.

Fettuccini topped with a humongous feathery-light meatball was brought together with a tomato sauce — simple, hearty and delicious. Perfectly prepared and finished with a delicate wine sauce, salmon filet joined whole shrimp, asparagus, mushrooms, green beans, julienne carrots and roasted potatoes.

With frothy cappuccino we enjoyed homemade desserts, each plate garnished with berry puree, chocolate sauce, and fresh blueberries, strawberries and mint leaves. Italian cheesecake was airier than most, made special with specks of citrus zest. Tiramisu was creamy and light, dusted with espresso and perhaps a hint of cinnamon.

Starters and salads range from $7 for a choice of soup to $20 for a hot or cold antipasto for two.  Pastas are $15 to $18. Entrees — chicken, veal, from the grill or seafood — run from $17 for chicken Piccata or Contadina, to $35 for a veal chop with sautéed onion and peppers, a vegetable and roasted potatoes, or for seafood (shrimp, clams, scungilli and lobster tail) Fra Diavolo. Desserts are $7 and $8, with assorted fruit or dessert platter options for two or more, for $8 per person. There’s a full bar, including specialty dessert martinis.

Hours are 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 4 to 10 p.m. Saturday, and 3 to 10 p.m. Sunday. They are closed on Monday. Parties for up to 42 people can be accommodated. Reservations are strongly suggested.

Recommendations:

■ Eggplant “Meatballs”

■ Insalata Il Villagio

■ Fettuccini with Meatballs

■ Salmone Mare e Terra

■ Homemade Italian Cheese Cake

■ Tiramisu