Diane M. Schwindt doesn’t drink alcohol and has never committed treason — but that didn’t stop her from teaching a lively lesson on “Taverns & Treason” as part of the Long Live Long Island series at the Merrick Library.
Schwindt, director of the Longwood Estate Manor and a historic cook at the Ketcham Inn, explained that many modern words and customs trace back to colonial-era taverns. Her path to becoming a Revolutionary-era interpreter, she said, was far from linear.
“Taverns were a place of political statements,” Schwindt said. “They would advertise to British soldiers so the barkeep could listen.”
She described how voting often took place in taverns using white and black marble balls for secrecy — giving rise to the term “blackballed.” Punch bowls sometimes revealed images or messages at the bottom once emptied, a practice she linked to the origin of the word “punchline.”
During the Revolutionary War, taverns functioned as community hubs where ballots were cast, mail was collected and early Masonic groups gathered.
“For this moment in time, taverns were such an important part of the Revolution,” Schwindt said. “It was the conduit of people talking to other people, information being transferred.”
Patrons also gathered to sing songs such as Yankee Doodle, originally a British tune meant to mock colonists but later reclaimed. Thick-bottomed “firing glasses” were used so drinkware would not shatter when banged on tables in unison.
Schwindt joked that she wasn’t surprised by the large number of men in attendance. “I don’t think I’ve seen so many men at one of my programs,” she said.
Her interest in the period deepened after meeting culinary historian Alice S. Ross, marking a shift from her earlier career teaching special education and horticulture. Despite the change, she said, the educator in her remains.
“I think the fascination for me is untangling whatever it is,” Schwindt said. “The next part is I get to share it. Because if I can’t share it, it just stays up there, and my head’s gonna explode.”
Audience members said they were especially intrigued by the culinary history.
“I’m interested to know that even today there are people interested in acquiring recipes that were done during George Washington’s time,” said Emma Crocenzi. “I never thought that after all these years you could actually follow these recipes.”
Schwindt said her curiosity about everyday life began in childhood, when family trips always included a lesson. She gravitated toward what happened behind the scenes — in kitchens and workrooms — rather than just the public narrative.
“People don’t talk about that part of history, and that’s what I want to bring to them,” she said. “I want to bring the smells, what they were eating, how the soap was made.”
Taverns were typically spaced seven to 15 miles apart and served common meats such as mutton and pork. Shot glasses, she noted, were kept beside diners so they could discard buckshot found in their food. The farther east one traveled on Long Island, the simpler the fare became.
Sundays were reserved for Sabbath observance, meaning taverns were closed to locals, though travelers staying overnight — often two or three to a bed — could still be served.
Audience member Connie Ventimiglia said she was grateful for modern hygiene. “Germs, sharing everything, that was kind of bad,” she said. “And the lack of cleanliness.”
For others, the talk underscored the relevance of studying history.
“I think the most important thing is that history sort of bridges times rather than stays in a particular time,” said attendee Sandy White. “We have a lot to learn about our past that helps us appreciate how we live today.”
