Takeout Queen

Cathi Turow: The Underdog Awards

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Many food critics on Long Island announce their choices for “the best burger,” or “the best pizza.” But what about the smaller categories? Shouldn’t there also be awards for the best Chinese takeout, the best naan, and the best beachside bites? I think so. This month, I found winners in each of these categories in new cafes. Check out the award winners along with other exceptional bites on the café menus.

Wokobowl (2 Glen St., Glen Cove)  

In this new, modern Chinese restaurant, congratulations to the Black Truffle Fried Rice as the grand winner of the Chinese takeout award. The dish is a combination of beef, mushrooms, peas, carrots, corn, and butter with black truffle flavor. The light truffle dressing smiles in the background, which gives the other ingredients a chance to shine through. What a spectacular ensemble performance. If you grab the dish to go, it will be placed in a large paper bowl filled with enough rice for several meals.

Wait. I think I’ve changed my mind. The House Special Lo Mein (made with ham, chicken, shrimp, cabbage, scallions, and shredded carrots) should be the winner. On the other hand, maybe the Kung Pao Chicken, with red peppers, jicama, celery, dried chili, and peanuts, should win for originality. Okay, here’s my final answer—it’s a three-way tie. They all win the Chinese takeout award.  

The Sand Box (63 Larrabee Ave., Oyster Bay)

The funnel fries win the “best beach bites” award. They’re freshly fried in this new, beachside café. Sit down at a table or on a bench beside the water and munch on these crunchy, buttery, sweet treats made of funnel dough. They look like French fries, but each nibble is a sugary sensation alongside a cup of chocolate dipping sauce.

The fries can share a plate with beach bites including burgers, hot dogs, quesadillas, onion rings and more. But wait. Maybe the 35 different milkshakes should win the beach bites award instead. Each one has a vanilla or chocolate soft ice cream base, a puree, a topping, and has an original name such as brownie bite dough, or soy sauce caramel. The outrageously delicious tiramisu milkshake is my absolute favorite. Okay, I’ve made up my mind. The milkshakes and funnel fries both win the beach bite award. It’s a tie.   

Dawat Indian Cuisine (611 Port Washington Blvd., Port Washington) 

This new restaurant features a plethora of creative Indian meals such as lamb chops marinated in nutmeg, cinnamon and Indian spices; lobster marsala; and ginger pumpkin soup with turmeric, crème fraiche and toasted pumpkin seeds. However, I was so taken with the nine different types of naan on the menu, I stuffed myself with those during my first visit. So, I’d like to officially announce the award goes to Malai Naan. The bread is covered with cream cheese, cilantro, jalapeno and bell peppers. All ingredients huddle beneath a blanket of creamy tomato sauce. It’s amazing. Although…the naan filled with crushed nuts and dried fruit was also incredible. Hold it. What about the naan with mint and butter glaze? It was delightfully light and refreshing. Okay, it’s a three-way tie.

Clearly, I have trouble making up my mind. But I do know what I love to eat. See you next month!  . 

See you next month.